Note that this is an old draft from a few years ago. My plan was to make another jump and go over these instructions. I haven't done this yet but there has been some interest in making a wall jump during the Covid-19 pandemic so I found the draft and will publish it as is for now. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions and I will try to clarify and possibly update these instructions. Please also note that these instructions are from years ago (2014) when the jump heights (and possibly wall jump specifications) were different. I believe that you can create all the jump heights that you need from the pieces (increments of 2").
I think that one of the complicated decisions to make is the colour scheme. So far I have made my wall sections two colours on the sides that are visible. The colour of top and bottom pieces do not really matter. I had enough black to be consistent with the maple leaf jump.
- You will need three sets of two mats for the visible facing side of the wall. To do a four foot section you use two mats plus the edge pieces. If you want to do five feet then you will need more mats.
- Out of these three sets of two mats you need to cut widths (actually heights of the wall sections).
- 2 x 6.25 in (16 cm) - for the base piece
- 4 x 6 in (15 cm) - for two pieces
- 2 x 4 in (10 cm)
- 2 x 2 in (5 cm)
- Out of the colour chosen for the bottom and top pieces of the wall sections you will need 8 x 4.5 in (11.5 cm)
- The base is made of 12 pieces the two 6.25 in pieces above plus
- 3 x 4.5 in (11.5 cm)
- 2 x 2 in (5 cm) or perhaps 1.75 in (4.5cm) - I made mine with the 2 and it ended up being 6 in tall but other people's bottom piece ended up .25 in taller. Perhaps due to different amounts of glue between the flat pieces.
- 3 x 1.75 in (4.5 cm)
- 2 x 7 in (18cm)
- only one of 4.5 in pieces is visible when changing heights so you could chose the same colour as the 8 4.5 in pieces.
Cuts
Cross sections of the various pieces
Intermediate pieces
To make one of the intermediate pieces use two of the side pieces and two of the top/bottom pieces. Glue it so that the side pieces are visible and that the top/bottom pieces are not visible from the side. See the cross section above. It is better that the top/bottom pieces are even with the side pieces (or slightly inset).
Note also that the red is opposite the white. This makes it easy to make sure that the colours alternate when changing heights. So if you are using two colours for each of the intermediate pieces I recommend that you do it this way.
Base (total height with top pieces is 8 inches or 20 cm)
- The base is made up to two boxes with sides added at the end
- see the cross section diagram
- box 1
- 2 tops and one bottom 4.5 in (11.5 cm) , 2 in (5 cm) sides
- after you make a box using one top, bottom and the two sides glue the extra top piece on
- box 2 -
- top/bottom 7 in (18 cm) , 1.75 in (4.5 cm) sides
- mark center on the top or bottom piece and glue center short piece
- glue a short side
- glue the other wide piece to the short side
- glue ends and center of middle piece to the wide piece
- turn piece on side and try to glue more of the middle piece
- glue the remaining short side piece in place
- mark where box 1 will sit on top of box 2 and glue the boxes together
- slanted sides
- 6.25 in (16 cm)
- make sure that when you glue the top edge to box 1 that it is flush with the top.
- now glue the middle of the side to the edge that touches box 2
Top pieces (4 or 7 displaceable)
UKA/WAO specifies 7 pieces and FCI typically has 4 pieces.
If making 7 their width is 17 cm. If making 4 pieces it is 11.75 in.
Mark 2.5 in or 6.5 cm from either end on both the good side and the other side (smooth). On the smooth side (side that will not be visible) put duct tape along this line centered on the line. This will provide support in the way of a hinge. Score about 1/2 way through the mats on the good side.
6.5
cm | 16 cm | 6.5 cm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqFGS9BwWVA